​A Recipe for All Season[ing]s

By Mary Reilly | Photograph by Dominic Perri

Photo by Dominic Perri

Photo by Dominic Perri

One of the greatest things about summer is cooking with gorgeous fresh vegetables. But my heart always breaks a bit when I look at the detritus littering my workspace after a marathon cooking session. Those scraps, peels, and leafy tops always promise even more pleasure. For years I’ve wracked my brain for ways to use it all.

Stocks, soups, pestos … all these options have been fully explored in my kitchen. I recently discovered yet one more way to use those scraps and it has changed the way I cook and season my food. (It’s also given me a bottomless arsenal of hostess and holiday gifts.)

I make seasoned salts.

The procedure is simple: Measure the vegetables, grind them up in a food processor or blender, and then add an equal weight of salt. I spread the shaggy, moist mixture across a sheet pan in a thin layer and let it dry, either in my oven or on the counter. (The oven is faster––your salt will be ready in a few hours; the counter method will take a day or two, depending on the humidity in your kitchen.)

Of course, some things are best sent straight to compost: rotten or slimy vegetables, and peelings that are fibrous and not flavorful should go right to the bin. But the majority of scraps can be enlisted: carrot and beet trimmings, kale and chard stems, little nibs of onion, and scraps of tomato all work well. I usually keep my vegetables separate and produce single-flavor salts, but there’s no reason you can’t mix your scraps together to make a “veggie salt.” I occasionally add citrus zest or fruit peels to my vegetable and herb blends.

These salts are best if kept in tightly sealed jars in a dark spot. A kitchen cabinet is just fine––they do not need refrigeration. I try to use them within six to nine months, though storage time will vary by ingredient. The flavor may diminish over time, but the salt never goes “bad.” Use them for seasoning wherever you would use salt.

Seasoned Salt

Makes a scant 2 cups

I use my oven set on low (about 170℉) to dry my salts, but this would be a perfect application for a dehydrator if you have one. The quantity you make can be adjusted up or down depending on what you have on hand—just use an equal amount of salt and vegetable.

1 cup, firmly packed (225 grams) vegetable scraps

1½ cups (225 grams) kosher salt

Heat your oven to its lowest setting (around 170℉).

In a food processor or blender, grind the vegetable scraps together with half of the salt. Blend until the vegetable is puréed (though a few small chunky pieces are OK). Remove the purée from the processor bowl and mix the remaining salt in evenly.

Spread the salt mixture in an even layer across a rimmed baking sheet. Place in oven and let it dehydrate, stirring and scraping up the salt occasionally. Depending on how wet your mix is, this can take from 1 to 5 hours or so. If the salt clumps up too much, you can use a mortar and pestle or your hands to “declump” it.

Store in tightly sealed jars.

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Favorite seasoned salts

Onion and/or garlic: Garlic scape stems are great here, and this is a wonderful to preserve that very seasonal crop for use later in the year.

Tomato: This will be a very wet purée and will take at least 5 hours to dry completely in the oven.

Carrots: Use your washed peels or any scraps. This salt is very pretty sprinkled over deviled eggs.

Celery and celery leaves: Use this flavor powerhouse to add a depth of flavor to soups.

Beets: This salt is stunning on ricotta or hummus.

Lemon peels (remove the white pith first), rosemary, thyme, and parsley stems: Great on chicken or fish. Add freshly ground pepper to make your own version of lemon pepper seasoning.

Apple peels, sage, onion: An all-purpose seasoning that works wonders on pork.

Experiment and discover your own favorite combinations and flavors.